YESWELDER Stainless Steel MIG Solid Wire ER308L .030-Diameter, 2-Pound Welding Wire

I recently used the YESWELDER Stainless Steel MIG Solid Wire ER308L .030-Diameter, 2-Pound Welding Wire for a few of my DIY projects, and it has been a game-changer. The quality of the welds is impressive, and it’s clear that this wire is designed for precision.One aspect that stood out immediately is the consistency of the wire feed. It runs smoothly through my welder without any snags or interruptions, which makes for a much more enjoyable welding experience. The welds themselves are clean and strong, with a nice finish that doesn’t require a lot of post-weld cleanup. This is particularly useful for projects where aesthetics matter as much as functionality.During my projects, I used this wire on various stainless steel pieces, and it performed flawlessly every time. It creates solid, reliable welds that give me confidence in the durability of the final product. The wire also seems to produce less spatter compared to other brands I’ve tried, which keeps the workspace cleaner and reduces the time spent on cleanup.The only minor downside is that being a stainless steel wire, it does require a bit more finesse and practice to perfect the technique, especially if you're transitioning from welding mild steel. However, once you get the hang of it, the results are well worth it.For any DIY enthusiast working with stainless steel, this welding wire is an excellent choice. It offers reliability, smooth performance, and high-quality results, making it a staple in my welding toolkit.

I'm old enough to think welding stainless required "heli-arc" (today's MIG), but googling found stainless flux-wire like this exists. Worried my basic 120 VAC 100 A Harbor Freight flux-wire welder (no gas) would struggle, since youtubes said stainless requires high heat and a 240 VAC welder. I switched "Max" power and max feed rate (recommended). Project was fixing cracked welds on the 18 awg (50 mil) lower 31" wide oven pan in my Jade Dynasty gas range, between pan and lower stiffener plates. The first welds (top in photo) turned out great (for me), but the middle ones not-great since lingered too long.I had clamped the two plates tight together with cross-beams, but found they had bowed apart from heat, partly from preheating each spot with a propane torch (worried of not enough heat). Can't weld 2 parts unless touching tight, so it even melted thru the stiffener plate edge at places and a bit into the top plate side, which I ground down (2nd photo), plus a crack which might have already been there. My goal was to get rid of bangs as the oven warmed and cooled, which I thought perhaps from the cracked welds. Seemed I was following someone since the detached welds were much uglier than the thin purty welds at the edges (likely factory, perhaps TIG).My oops, but the stainless wire worked great. Youtubers said it popped more than normal steel wire, but I just got comforting sizzling pops. Only got two splatter beads, close-in, matching youtubers who said that despite the loud popping, they got only a few splatter beads which wire-brushed off easy. To avoid them, I had covered the surrounding plate with damp rags.

Welds really well for the price! Running off my Lincoln MiG 140 at 110volts and having no problems welding up stainless piping. Seems very consistent and as good or better than name brand spool.

CAUTION: when a weld cools, the slag will chip off the weld and fly in the air. ALWAYS wear eye protection around the welded area (such as goggles), to prevent slag chips from flying in you eye! There is NO WARNING about this.Nonetheless, it works well, with caveats. I used a Lincoln Weldpak 100 120v welder, wired to electrode poisitive, .035" stainless flux wire, and was able to get plenty of good welds on 16 ga. stainless exhaust pipe. For most welds, I set the heat on "C" and speed at aound 2.6-2.7 (there is a "sweet spot" where it worked the best). For but-joints with a little space between pipes, using "B" and a slower speed worked better, with no edge burn-through.Technique is critical, as you have to go slow and steady, watching the molten pool as you go. Roping of welds is easy to do if the wire speed is too high. Burn-through was not an issue for most joints (for pipe edge-welds, B power was a little better). Stickout was around 1/2" to 3/4" max. Also, ONLY weld in horizontal positions when possible; vertical or upside down welding will cause the pool to run and drip. Splatter is minimal, but the pool can drip if it runs off (not good of course). Weld penetration can be proper with this welder, but it does take getting used to in getting proper penetration and depth, and agian, take your time.I normally have used mild steel flux core, and that is moe foregiving and easier to weld. This Yeswelder wire is less foregiving in that it is easier to mess up if you get in a hurry. But, I really like the shinyness of the welds, once the slag self-chips away. With patience and practice, you can get decent (and excellent) welds with this wire on a a Lincoln 120v Weldpack 100 welder on 16 ga. and thinner pipe!

Was fine for what was needed

Great Stainless Steel Flux Cored wire. I had my doubts when I purchased this, and it took several tries and trial and error to get the amp/volts right. This wire needs a lot more amps/volts than mild steel flux core. several of the welds in my photos were at 210amp (max for my 240v machine). Once you figure it out, this wire welds with very little splatter. Its much cleaner than mild steel flux core. I would exclusively use this for my projects if it was not expensive.Stainless quality seems to be inline with 304ss, one of the photos was after i soaked the part in peroxide/vinegar/salt over night to test its corrosion resistance.

The quality on this wire is better then anything I’ve bought in store, which is a really good value when comparing mild wire to stainless at almost the same cost.

i use this to hang my daughter blanket outdoor, it work great